The Mystery of the
Out-of-Place Graves
Out-of-Place Graves
Another Paul Rowe History Mystery
Small Mountain, Vung Tau, Vietnam. 2006
Many years ago I was hiking along an interesting, overgrown, half-hidden, old trail on the Front Beach side of Small Mountain, when I came across what I thought was the lower part of Bunker 2
(one of the many old French forts in Vung Tau).
Across the years I came back to explore this place many times. This fort is abandoned but in surprisingly good condition. This article is not about the French fort though.
Between the man-made underground munitions storage and the duty officer’s hut can be found two graves.
Two strange and mysterious graves.
The two graves appear to be out of place.
(one of the many old French forts in Vung Tau).
Across the years I came back to explore this place many times. This fort is abandoned but in surprisingly good condition. This article is not about the French fort though.
Between the man-made underground munitions storage and the duty officer’s hut can be found two graves.
Two strange and mysterious graves.
The two graves appear to be out of place.
Above is a picture of the two graves on Small Mountain, Vung Tau island.
They are seen here next to the Duty Officer's hut.
They are seen here next to the Duty Officer's hut.
A close-up shot of one of the graves' headstones.
Across Asia, Chinese writing does not necessarily mean it was written by Chinese.
Across Asia, Chinese writing does not necessarily mean it was written by Chinese.
A close up of the second grave's headstone.
Two non-Vietnamese graves in a place where burials usually do not take place. STRANGE to say the least.
Cemeteries used by Vung Tau residents are purpose-made designated places far from the town. Vietnamese people do not like living with ghosts. Old French cemeteries have been removed from the island.
Cemeteries used by Vung Tau residents are purpose-made designated places far from the town. Vietnamese people do not like living with ghosts. Old French cemeteries have been removed from the island.
In my many years of exploring the mountains of Vung Tau, I do not recall seeing any other grave sites on Small Mountain.
The two graves did not even appear to be Vietnamese. And I’m not referring to the the Chinese writing on the grave stones. There are plenty of sacred sites in Vietnam which have Chinese writing. It was the shape of the two mysterious graves that put them out of place.
The two graves did not even appear to be Vietnamese. And I’m not referring to the the Chinese writing on the grave stones. There are plenty of sacred sites in Vietnam which have Chinese writing. It was the shape of the two mysterious graves that put them out of place.
I have seen graves shaped a little like this in Korea. The graves are half spheres. In Korea, ideally, the mounds are earth with well manicured grass covering it. The graves at the old French fort are spherical and covered with concrete. The headstones look expensive.
I formed a quick hypothesis that these graves could be Japanese or from the Japanese period. I simply removed elements from the equation which seemed out of place. The two graves did not look Vietnamese, Vietnamese-Chinese or French Catholic. Who is left who may have used the old French fort? The only contender left - the Japanese.
Fast forward to June 2016
A phone conversation I had. Or what I remember of it.
Me: Hi. This is Paul Rowe.
Ern: Ernie here.
Me: What do you know?
Ernie: For years there’s been rumours and stories of Japanese graves on Small Mountain.
Me: Yep. I was tempted to add that I probably started them, but I didn’t. Ern sounded excited so I let him continue.
Ernie: Well I think I just found them. They are at Cable Fort.
I’d never heard of Cable Fort, but I know that Ernie has a map which names every French fort in Vung Tau.
Me: On Small Mountain? Under B2?
We spent sometime confirming the fort and the position of the two graves. I made a mental note to brush up on my fort names.
Me: Sounds like the ones I photographed some years back. Did you take some pix?
Ernie: Sure did.
Me: Sounds like an excuse to meet at The Office and have a beer or two.
Ernie: This arvo then?
Me: See you there. Cheers.
Well, I thought, it seems as if the out-of-place graves have come back from the dead.
Me: Hi. This is Paul Rowe.
Ern: Ernie here.
Me: What do you know?
Ernie: For years there’s been rumours and stories of Japanese graves on Small Mountain.
Me: Yep. I was tempted to add that I probably started them, but I didn’t. Ern sounded excited so I let him continue.
Ernie: Well I think I just found them. They are at Cable Fort.
I’d never heard of Cable Fort, but I know that Ernie has a map which names every French fort in Vung Tau.
Me: On Small Mountain? Under B2?
We spent sometime confirming the fort and the position of the two graves. I made a mental note to brush up on my fort names.
Me: Sounds like the ones I photographed some years back. Did you take some pix?
Ernie: Sure did.
Me: Sounds like an excuse to meet at The Office and have a beer or two.
Ernie: This arvo then?
Me: See you there. Cheers.
Well, I thought, it seems as if the out-of-place graves have come back from the dead.
*
Later that same afternoon.
At The Office (a popular Vung Tau bar):
Later that same afternoon.
At The Office (a popular Vung Tau bar):
As the beers were ordered the jpegs from our phones confirmed we were talking about the same graves. Ern said he had cropped the headstone writing from the digital pix and had emailed them to his mate, a photographer, who could get the stones translated from Japanese to English. I took a closer look at the writing. It might not be that straight forward. The Japanese use a lot of Chinese writing on sacred stuff.
By the time we had downed a couple of beers, Ern’s photographer friend had emailed him back and confirmed what I had just said. The translation could be from Chinese, but he would look into it.
As I left The Office in the hope of finding some lasagna for dinner, I was very pleased that the mystery of the out-of place graves was well and truly resurrected.
By the time we had downed a couple of beers, Ern’s photographer friend had emailed him back and confirmed what I had just said. The translation could be from Chinese, but he would look into it.
As I left The Office in the hope of finding some lasagna for dinner, I was very pleased that the mystery of the out-of place graves was well and truly resurrected.
Monday July 4th 2016.
Emails between Ernie and myself
Emails between Ernie and myself
Ern Marshall
11:45 AM (1 hour ago)
to me
I got a reply from Walter. I show it below.
Ern,
Both of them say “Born in China, Guang Dong Province, and then some district I think.
Walter
So Paul, that blows the Japanese theory out of the water, Where do I go from here?
11:45 AM (1 hour ago)
to me
I got a reply from Walter. I show it below.
Ern,
Both of them say “Born in China, Guang Dong Province, and then some district I think.
Walter
So Paul, that blows the Japanese theory out of the water, Where do I go from here?
Ern Marshall
2:58 PM (0 minutes ago)
to me
It has got me going...side tracked again........... I have made some inquiries to a professional translating service and waiting for the quote.
2:58 PM (0 minutes ago)
to me
It has got me going...side tracked again........... I have made some inquiries to a professional translating service and waiting for the quote.
paul rowe <[email protected]>
6:10 AM (0 minutes ago)
to Ern
It wasn't the writing that got me hypothesizing about Japanese graves it was their shape.
I have seen similar shaped graves in Korea. Chinese have a variety of grave shapes, but I have never seen a Chinese grave this shape. Graves in Guang Dong Province are not this shape. I have seen thousands of Vietnamese-Chinese graves in VN and none look like this.
There is considerably more to this story than meets the eye.
Happy distraction.
6:10 AM (0 minutes ago)
to Ern
It wasn't the writing that got me hypothesizing about Japanese graves it was their shape.
I have seen similar shaped graves in Korea. Chinese have a variety of grave shapes, but I have never seen a Chinese grave this shape. Graves in Guang Dong Province are not this shape. I have seen thousands of Vietnamese-Chinese graves in VN and none look like this.
There is considerably more to this story than meets the eye.
Happy distraction.
Time to ponder.
I keep talking about Korean grave shapes, but deducing Japanese were responsible for the two graves on Small Mountain. That is because Japanese and Korean culture seem so similar in many regards (to an outsider). Maybe their graves are similar. This gives some direction for the next bit of research.
I know that there were South Koreans here during the America War, but I find it hard to believe that they were in command of Cable Fort. And to think that they would bury their dead in the grounds of a disused French fort seems ridiculous in the extreme.
BUT, what if the graves were nothing to do with the forts? What if the abandoned fort was just a convenient place for a burial? I hope Ern’s translating service finds a date on the headstones. The date is crucial to the unfolding story. A date outside of the Japanese period, would change things considerably.
*
If the quickly formed Japanese grave hypothesis dies,
it will be replaced with an equally mysterious puzzle, this time concerning two out-of-place Chinese graves.
Even as I say this, it sounds weird to say the least.
Chinese are usually so fussy and precise about their burials and associated rites.
Two random graves, almost intentionally hidden behind the hut, in an deserted French fort, on a mountain in Vietnam.
Something is not right. Something terrible, or very unfortunate may have happened.
It makes no sense at all.
There must be an extremely interesting story behind these graves.
I know that there were South Koreans here during the America War, but I find it hard to believe that they were in command of Cable Fort. And to think that they would bury their dead in the grounds of a disused French fort seems ridiculous in the extreme.
BUT, what if the graves were nothing to do with the forts? What if the abandoned fort was just a convenient place for a burial? I hope Ern’s translating service finds a date on the headstones. The date is crucial to the unfolding story. A date outside of the Japanese period, would change things considerably.
*
If the quickly formed Japanese grave hypothesis dies,
it will be replaced with an equally mysterious puzzle, this time concerning two out-of-place Chinese graves.
Even as I say this, it sounds weird to say the least.
Chinese are usually so fussy and precise about their burials and associated rites.
Two random graves, almost intentionally hidden behind the hut, in an deserted French fort, on a mountain in Vietnam.
Something is not right. Something terrible, or very unfortunate may have happened.
It makes no sense at all.
There must be an extremely interesting story behind these graves.
New information would lead to another hypothesis.
A chance to write /rewrite history!
A chance to write /rewrite history!
10:30am July 6th:
Just minutes ago the translation of the headstones arrived from Ernie.
Just minutes ago the translation of the headstones arrived from Ernie.
W01
The tomb of Mr. Zhang De Jiu (middle column)
Born in Fangcheng County, Guangdong Province, China (right column)
Died in Vietnam Toudun City (today it’s Vũng Tàu) on (left column)
Gregorian calendar 26 Aug 1972, lunar calendar 6th day of July 1968
The tomb of Mr. Zhang De Jiu (middle column)
Born in Fangcheng County, Guangdong Province, China (right column)
Died in Vietnam Toudun City (today it’s Vũng Tàu) on (left column)
Gregorian calendar 26 Aug 1972, lunar calendar 6th day of July 1968
W02
The tomb of Zhang’s family, Mrs. Yang San Jie (middle column)
Born in Fangcheng County, Guangdong Province, China (right column)
Died in Vietnam Toudun City (today it’s Vũng Tàu) on (left column)
Gregorian calendar 3 Sep 1968, lunar calendar 6 th day of July, 1968
The tomb of Zhang’s family, Mrs. Yang San Jie (middle column)
Born in Fangcheng County, Guangdong Province, China (right column)
Died in Vietnam Toudun City (today it’s Vũng Tàu) on (left column)
Gregorian calendar 3 Sep 1968, lunar calendar 6 th day of July, 1968
*
*Notes from the translating service *
1. The yellow highlighted date, 26, is unclear from the photos, we think its right
but not 100%
2. There are two dates in the left hand columns of both, note where these
columns split into two, one is Gregorian (right hand) the other Chinese lunar (left
hand), however these dates don't match. We've checked it twice and can only
think there may have been a different calendar in use then?
*Notes from the translating service *
1. The yellow highlighted date, 26, is unclear from the photos, we think its right
but not 100%
2. There are two dates in the left hand columns of both, note where these
columns split into two, one is Gregorian (right hand) the other Chinese lunar (left
hand), however these dates don't match. We've checked it twice and can only
think there may have been a different calendar in use then?
Is the Mystery of The Out of Place Graves Solved?
It is tempting to say, 'Yes it is solved. The graves belong to two Chinese people.'
Congratulations another History Mystery solved.
Congratulations another History Mystery solved.
But as with many History Mysteries I have worked on, a 'solved case', often produces more questions, more mysteries. And so it is with this case.
Let's say Part 1 is solved. We now know the nationality of the departed - Chinese.
Let's say Part 1 is solved. We now know the nationality of the departed - Chinese.
The Mystery of The Out of Place Graves: Part 2.
Part 2 of this History Mystery wants to find out;
~ more about the deceased, and
~ WHY were they buried in such a place?
*
The History Mystery, The Out-of-Place Graves, has far more data now than it ever has.
The information now needs to be analyzed. The translations, the photographs, the time period, the place.
Everything can now be bought together to make some deductions and conclusions.
Not necessarily the final conclusions. After all it is history that we are dealing with here.
There are still gaping holes, massive questions and contradictions that need addressing.
~ more about the deceased, and
~ WHY were they buried in such a place?
*
The History Mystery, The Out-of-Place Graves, has far more data now than it ever has.
The information now needs to be analyzed. The translations, the photographs, the time period, the place.
Everything can now be bought together to make some deductions and conclusions.
Not necessarily the final conclusions. After all it is history that we are dealing with here.
There are still gaping holes, massive questions and contradictions that need addressing.
Let's begin:
All history happens in time and space (a place). And in this case, history involves people.
PEOPLE:
Q. Who are buried here? A. Mr. Zhang and Mrs. Yang.
Q. Were they related? A. Yes.
Q. How were they related? A. We do not know.
~~~ W02 says "The tomb of Zhang's family."
Q. Were they husband and wife? A. We do not know. Maybe.
Q. Were they brother and sister? A. We do not know. Maybe.
Q. Were they mother and son? A. We do not know. Could have been.
~~ I got a second opinion on part of the translation. Bec, from Hong Kong, says that the symbol is Grand. She suggests that the female may even mean Mr. Zhang's mum.
Q. Were there other Chinese on Vung Tau island? A. Yes, many.
~~~ Chinese traders have been in the Phuoc Thuy province for hundred of years. When they arrived, they set up Market One at Front Beach. There are records of the Chinese traders using, and donating a stuffed tiger, to the Last Tiger in Vung Tau Shrine.
PEOPLE:
Q. Who are buried here? A. Mr. Zhang and Mrs. Yang.
Q. Were they related? A. Yes.
Q. How were they related? A. We do not know.
~~~ W02 says "The tomb of Zhang's family."
Q. Were they husband and wife? A. We do not know. Maybe.
Q. Were they brother and sister? A. We do not know. Maybe.
Q. Were they mother and son? A. We do not know. Could have been.
~~ I got a second opinion on part of the translation. Bec, from Hong Kong, says that the symbol is Grand. She suggests that the female may even mean Mr. Zhang's mum.
Q. Were there other Chinese on Vung Tau island? A. Yes, many.
~~~ Chinese traders have been in the Phuoc Thuy province for hundred of years. When they arrived, they set up Market One at Front Beach. There are records of the Chinese traders using, and donating a stuffed tiger, to the Last Tiger in Vung Tau Shrine.
TIME:
Q. When were these two people buried? A. We do not know.
~~~ According to the Gregorian calendar, they died four years apart. According to the lunar calendar they died on the same day, same month, same year. Was Mrs. Yang buried four years before Mr. Zhang? Or, where they buried on the same day?
Q, When did these two people die? A. We do not know.
~~~ According to the Gregorian calendar, they died four years apart. According to the lunar calendar they died on the same day, same month, same year
Q. When were these two people buried? A. We do not know.
~~~ According to the Gregorian calendar, they died four years apart. According to the lunar calendar they died on the same day, same month, same year. Was Mrs. Yang buried four years before Mr. Zhang? Or, where they buried on the same day?
Q, When did these two people die? A. We do not know.
~~~ According to the Gregorian calendar, they died four years apart. According to the lunar calendar they died on the same day, same month, same year
Q. Anything significant about 1968 and 1972? A. The American War was in full swing.
~~~ The Australians were responsible for Phuc Thuy Province. Therefore Australians were responsible for Vung Tau. Vung Tau was seen as an R&R place, but in reality, it had an extremely busy airbase, RAAF hospital, naval harbour, supply stores, and all the associated facilities. The Americans manned radar equipment on Big Mountain. In short, Vung Tau was reasonably safe, but very busy. There of course were many Vung Tau residents on the sprawling island. The mountains would have been considered military, and off limits to civilians (I would think). Australian soldiers were warned away from the many old and out-dated French forts for safety reasons.
~~~ The Australians were responsible for Phuc Thuy Province. Therefore Australians were responsible for Vung Tau. Vung Tau was seen as an R&R place, but in reality, it had an extremely busy airbase, RAAF hospital, naval harbour, supply stores, and all the associated facilities. The Americans manned radar equipment on Big Mountain. In short, Vung Tau was reasonably safe, but very busy. There of course were many Vung Tau residents on the sprawling island. The mountains would have been considered military, and off limits to civilians (I would think). Australian soldiers were warned away from the many old and out-dated French forts for safety reasons.
PLACE:
Q. Is Small Mountain a cemetery? A. No.
Q. Were any civilians killed in the occasional mortar shelling of the fuel dump and airfield? A. Do not know.
Q. What kind of place was Vung Tau in 1968 to 1972? A. It was seen as an R&R place, but in reality, it had an extremely busy airbase, RAAF hospital, naval harbour, supply stores, and all the associated facilities. The Americans manned radar equipment on Big Mountain. In short, Vung Tau was reasonably safe, but very busy.
Q. What kind of place was Small mountain then? A. The mountains would have been considered military, and off limits to civilians (I would think). So while the rest of Vung Tau town was busy, Small Mountain would have been relatively peaceful. As soon as town limits were left, Vung Tau and its surrounds were in resistance fighters hands.
Q. Are these actual graves? Or shrines of remembrance?
**
Q. Is Small Mountain a cemetery? A. No.
Q. Were any civilians killed in the occasional mortar shelling of the fuel dump and airfield? A. Do not know.
Q. What kind of place was Vung Tau in 1968 to 1972? A. It was seen as an R&R place, but in reality, it had an extremely busy airbase, RAAF hospital, naval harbour, supply stores, and all the associated facilities. The Americans manned radar equipment on Big Mountain. In short, Vung Tau was reasonably safe, but very busy.
Q. What kind of place was Small mountain then? A. The mountains would have been considered military, and off limits to civilians (I would think). So while the rest of Vung Tau town was busy, Small Mountain would have been relatively peaceful. As soon as town limits were left, Vung Tau and its surrounds were in resistance fighters hands.
Q. Are these actual graves? Or shrines of remembrance?
**
As you can see, by looking at People, Time and Place, the information from the translator gives us very little definite information about the graves.
15 July, 2020:
I was suspicious about Zhang's family. It was easy to jump to the conclusion that the female was Mr. Zhang's wife.
It crossed my mind that she maybe his sister.
However, I do not know how Chinese refer to family members.
I contacted Bec, who had assisted me in another History Mystery, to get her spin on this.
Initially she quickly replied "Husband and wife."
I said "Are you sure?"
Upon a closer examination she found the symbol 'Grand'.
"Could be Zhang's mum."
"It is confusing."
So, as you see, the deeper I dig the more mysterious it becomes. A perfect History Mystery!
I was suspicious about Zhang's family. It was easy to jump to the conclusion that the female was Mr. Zhang's wife.
It crossed my mind that she maybe his sister.
However, I do not know how Chinese refer to family members.
I contacted Bec, who had assisted me in another History Mystery, to get her spin on this.
Initially she quickly replied "Husband and wife."
I said "Are you sure?"
Upon a closer examination she found the symbol 'Grand'.
"Could be Zhang's mum."
"It is confusing."
So, as you see, the deeper I dig the more mysterious it becomes. A perfect History Mystery!
As with any cold detective case, a return to the scene is essential. So I did. What struck me was how clean and neat the graves and the general surrounds were. There are large trees over head, dropping leaves all year round. The grave stones should be buried under rotting vegetation. They are not. The incense jars are jammed full of incense sticks stubs. There are drinking cups. The stones have a fresh coat of paint.
Deduction: Someone, or some people, maintain these graves. People pray at these graves. They will know the history of these Out-of-Place-Graves. That is the way forward.
Deduction: Someone, or some people, maintain these graves. People pray at these graves. They will know the history of these Out-of-Place-Graves. That is the way forward.
On 17th of July 2020, I used Face Book to plea for help with this History Mystery.
Within hours I was inundated with replies. Below are replies from interested people. They tell their own story.
Christopher confirms my first guess of sister, but he is even more specific; third sister.
Three different translators and three different versions.
The problem, I am sure lies additional information which Christopher provided;
the grave stones are written in traditional Chinese. No doubt that is difficult to translate.
Add to that, it may have been written by a Vietnamese with Chinese as a second language. And then engraved by someone who knows no Chinese language at all. (How many times have I had banners and signs printed by non speakers of English, only to find huge spelling and grammar mistakes.) THANK YOU Christopher.
Three different translators and three different versions.
The problem, I am sure lies additional information which Christopher provided;
the grave stones are written in traditional Chinese. No doubt that is difficult to translate.
Add to that, it may have been written by a Vietnamese with Chinese as a second language. And then engraved by someone who knows no Chinese language at all. (How many times have I had banners and signs printed by non speakers of English, only to find huge spelling and grammar mistakes.) THANK YOU Christopher.
Yes Christopher. Tracking down their relatives and friends is the way forward.
With Marcia and Linh's help we will be much nearer, hopefully, to tracking down the story behind these graves.
Below is the Google Earth map I sent Marcia. You will need to zoom in to see the trail to the graves. I see now the trail has been bituminized so it should be easier to get to the French fort.
Tim's suggestion holds a great deal of potential. Decades of Vietnam research has taught me that the people living around historic sites are incredibly helpful. For example, families living around the dozens of war tunnels I have explored, turn out to be more interesting than the tunnels themselves. The only way I found the ancient buried Cham fort, was because of the people who lived on top of it! The Grandma Tim talks of may hold the key to this mystery.
Vietnam History
and other good stuff
Paul Rowe, Ho Chi Minh City. 2020
and other good stuff
Paul Rowe, Ho Chi Minh City. 2020